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I’ve been photographing high-end real-estate for about 7 years and have probably shot several hundred, if not thousand, properties in that time. When I look back at the images I handed over to my clients in my first year, I cringe. Back then I thought to myself “how hard can this be? Walk in the room, take a photo, email it to the client, nailed it!”. If I could go back, I’d give myself a nice open hand slap.

You see, interior photography is a skill. It’s as much science as it is artistic. Both sides need to be studied, practiced and mastered if you’re to succeed in this saturated and competitive field of photography.

Being one of the areas of photography I focus on most (no pun intended), I spend a lot of time looking at professional real-estate images. Some leave me in awe, others leave me swearing out loud. From my experiences over the last number of years, coupled with the failings I’ve witnessed in some photographers’ work, here are my top five tips for great property photography.

Real Estate Photography Tutorial by Oliver Pohlmann

1. Use The Correct Equipment

There are certain must-have items you need to photograph a property.

Wide-angle lens – For general use on cropped-frame bodies, Canon’s 10-22mm or 10-18mm and Nikon’s 10-24mm lenses are ideal. For full-frame bodies, consider the Nikon 14-24mm, Canon and Nikon 16-35mm lenses and the Canon 17-40mm. Don’t dismiss the cheaper options from Sigma and Tamron, as reviews show they deliver image quality close to the Canon and Nikon versions, but at a lower cost. These recommended lenses zoom out far enough to make rooms look large and spacious without causing unrealistic distortion or proportions. Never use a fish-eye lens. Once your budget allows, look in to arming yourself with a proper architectural, tilt-shift lens or some high-end primes.

Tripod – Hand-holding your camera with interior photography not only looks unprofessional, but it will result in blurred shots every time. Arm yourself with a tripod and a remote shutter release to eliminate the risk of camera shake when taking a shot.

Flash – Get yourself at least one good-quality flash, as your DSLR’s pop-up flash simply won’t cut it. In fact, I’d go so far as saying your flash is one of your most important tools in real-estate photography. If you’re using off-camera flash, you’ll also need some wireless triggers. Something like the Phottix Strato II can be found for £75 a set and are the ones I use myself. These will give you the freedom to use your flash away from your camera without any restrictions.

2. Prepare The Room

Remove any clutter such as paperwork, clothes and anything else which you wouldn’t find lying around in a show home. Next, turn on all the lights in the property. This helps make rooms look inviting and warmer, plus it fills in the darker areas often found in the corners. Plump up sofa cushions and straighten bed covers, curtains and blinds. Make it look spotless in there!

Real Estate Photography Tutorial by Oliver Pohlmann

3. Learn How To Control Both Ambient Light and Flash Light

When photographing a room during daylight hours, the light inside a room may be two or three stops darker than outside – that’s up to 8x less light in the room! Taking a photo with your camera set to expose for the room you’re in will leave the windows over-exposed as a mass of over-powering white light. High-end interior photography involves balancing the light coming through the windows with the light inside the room. Doing this correctly enables you to see the view outside the windows – which is vital if that view is a selling point. This can be done in one of two ways.

Some property photographers use exposure bracketing or HDR in order to cover the differing levels of light. This involves taking three or more shots at varying exposures and blending them together in software such as Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop. However, I find a lot of interior photographers produce very unnatural-looking results using this technique. Therefore, if you are going to use HDR or exposure bracketing, make sure you watch my detailed tutorial on natural-looking HDR interior photography.

Personally, I recommend learning the art and science behind off-camera flash if you want your images to stand out from the crowd. With the off-camera flash technique, you set the camera to expose correctly for the windows and use flash to increase the exposure of the room.

Learning how your camera’s shutter speed only affects the ambient light (i.e. sunlight), while aperture and ISO affect both ambient and flash power, is a key skill in balancing the two sources of light and creating striking images. See my tutorial on interior photography without over-exposing windows which explains this technique in more detail.

Real Estate Photography Tutorial by Oliver Pohlmann

4. Master Your Settings

I recommend keeping your ISO on 100 or 200 as default, not Auto. This ensures your images are free of any unnecessary noise or grain. The only time I raise the ISO higher is if my flash is already on full power and I need more power from it to illuminate the room. Remember, raising your ISO increases the effective power of your flash in your images.

Set your aperture at f/8 and work from there. This setting works well for two reasons. Firstly, f/8 is usually where your lens it at its sharpest. Secondly, it offers a wide enough depth-of-field for all of the room to be in focus, whilst allowing in enough light for short shutter speeds. Again, the only time I change this is if I need more flash power, whereby opening up your aperture (choosing a smaller F number) allows more flash light in through the lens.

Now, adjust your shutter speed (if you’re in Manual mode) or shift your DSLR’s exposure meter (if you’re in Aperture Priority mode) to exposure correctly for the windows.

Once your settings are dialled in, you’re left needing to set your flash power and direction for the room. Bouncing the flash light off the ceiling or a wall delivers the best diffused light. Of course, flash modifiers and diffusers are another path to explore. If the room looks too bright, lower the flash power, and vice-versa.

Tips For Better Real Estate Photography by Oliver Pohlmann

5. Learn Effective Composition

Walk around the room and identify the best view points. Often these are aiming from one corner of the room in to the other, or from a perspective which conveys space or the flow from one room in to another. Always photograph a room from more than one view point. This ensures you can review your images later and make a more confident decision on which perspective works best.

There are certain key rules when it comes to real-estate photography. Firstly, all your vertical lines should be vertical. This is achieved by aiming your camera perfectly horizontal. Aiming slightly up or down will result it converging verticals – an indication that an amateur is at work. There are exceptions to this rule. For example, photographing a stairwell, or shooting from a higher level down to the room below may require tilting the camera up or down. Similarly you may find that you have no option but to aim your camera upwards when photographing the exterior of the property. Fortunately Photoshop and Lightroom can correct any converging verticals if required.

I’ve heard differing opinions on my next point on composition. Some say to always shoot from chest height – which is often midway between the floor and ceiling. These photographers say this creates the ideal composition for a room. I, along with many others, disagree. Why would I want 1/3 of the frame filled with a dull ceiling? Others say to always shoot from hip height. Me personally, I say to shoot from a height which suits the position of the contents within that room. In a kitchen, for example, most of the cupboards run from the floor up to the ceiling. Here, it makes sense to shoot at chest height, since this will also show the top of the work surfaces. In a bathroom or living room, for example, where most objects (sofa, coffee table, toilet, bath etc) are beneath hip height, it makes more sense to shoot from just below the hip. Essentially you want to fill your image with the contents of the room, not dead space.

Real Estate Photography Tutorial by Oliver Pohlmann

As with every area of photography, there is no substitute for practice and experience. Everybody knows someone with their own home, be it yourself, your friends or your parents. Use that opportunity to practice and don’t forget to take inspiration from other real-estate photographers. One website I visit frequently is Houzz. Get your images close to the ones showcased there and you’re well on your way to making a career as a professional real-estate photographer.

If you found this article useful, check out my latest article on Advanced Real-Estate Photography Tips, helping you work more efficiently with your clients and produce better-quality images.

Follow me on Instagram for all my latest real-estate photography

Author – Oliver Pohlmann

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  1. Rich Carmody says:

    Good article. Most of the “tips” articles are not really geared towards professional photographers. I have shot about 1000 homes myself. I use a tripod, manual settings, flash into the ceiling and I use a small white handheld v-card to kick the flash a bit. The concept of ambient/flash exposure is very important, simple but not always understood by beginners. I think that feathering the flash is important, going for a white ceiling without a hot spot or bright edge, which you do well. I could go on and on about trash cans, pets, trailers, taxidermy, dark kitchen cabinets with white counters and dirty floors but I wont. (-;

  2. Brandon Esparza says:

    Thanks for the tips.

    I’d love your input on smaller spaces. I take photos for an RV dealership. They are often pretty dark and small spaces, though I do turn on the lights.

    I use a flash on top of my camera. I don’t’ have to worry about window light as I generally close all the windows.

    My challenge is to get consistent light up close and farther back in the RV. I’d love any input in how you would approach smaller spaces.

  3. Joie Gahum says:

    Great shots!! Have you tried using an external roadeavour lens? For phone?

  4. Sharon Wong says:

    Thank you for your article. I work at real estate and wanted some lenses for property photography. I have a Canon 70D (atm beginner level) and thinking about Canon 10-18mm lenses, but I am also thinking about upgrading to Canon 6D II. Will the lenses work the same?
    I also observed a professional property photographer using a Canon 16-35mm and photos turned out really well.

  5. Great tips, I find Im learning something new every time Im surfing the net in regards to photography. I use a 5D Mkiii with a 24mm EF Prime, still find I’m getting areas out of focus on the fringes. Would you recommend a better lens?
    Also I use the bracketing as Ive found my Flash can be harsh with the diffuser. Should I look at better diffusers, like the Jim Wong range?Thanks for your article.

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      Hi Andrew. What aperture are you shooting at? f/8 is generally the sharpest aperture for most lenses and should get everything in focus. However, soft edges are a trait of a lot of lenses. Just make sure you’re using profile correction in Photoshop or Lightroom, which should reduce this slightly. If you’re getting harsh light with a flash, you need to learn to use it better. My flash shots (the ones using a speedlight flash) don’t use a diffuser and I get lovely soft light. I bounce my flash off the ceiling or the wall behind – never directly in to the room. Keep practising, as flash is very important for interior shots.

  6. Hi Oliver,
    I have a Canon 10D and looking to purchase a Sigma 10-20. Do you think the 10D is adequate to get a start or should I be looking for a different body?

  7. Garreth says:

    Hi there, I’m using a Nikon D3300 with an 18-55 lens. I’ve got an external flash and wireless receiver, but I was wondering if the lens is adequate enough for interior photography

  8. Debbie says:

    Hi Oliver,

    What camera do you use? I have a Nikon D5000 and am looking at purchasing one for real estate interior photography. What would you recommend?

  9. Chad says:

    Hi there, we’ve just bough a new Canon EOS 1300d with a wide angle lens and we have a flash gun we mount on top, what’s the ideal settings for internal photos and external photos of the house aas we are an estate agents and want the clearest best pics possible

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      Hi Chad. There aren’t any ideal settings as it depends on the room you’re shooting and the lighting conditions. You could start with an aperture of f/7.1 and set your ISO to either 100 or 200 and take it from there. Make sure you’re tripod mounted and using an off-camera flash. Good luck!

  10. Oliver Pohlmann says:

    Hi Gabe. Yes, using larger studio strobes will definitely help compared to using smaller speedlights. The 5D3 is perfect and 22Mp will be more than enough for commercial use of the images.

  11. Teresa McAfee says:

    Thank you for the excellent advise. Sony a33 camera. Do you recommend a specific lens?

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      Hi Teresa.
      I’ve not used Sony cameras in the field myself, but the Sigma 10-20mm and Tamron 10-24 are reported to be good if you’re on a tighter budget. I would also look in to the Sony 16-50mm as that’s a good zoom range for interiors and exteriors.

  12. Stephanie says:

    Oliver, your advice is the most helpful and easy to follow that I have found online. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I am new to real estate photography, and appreciate your thorough explanations.

  13. Claire Lock says:

    Hi everyone. Does anyone know of softwear to change a dull sky exterior to a nice blue sky with or without clouds. I’m looking for something nice and easy not photoshop layers etc? Can anyone help me please.

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      Photoshop layers is the best option for a realistic looking sky replacement. It’s worth learning as it can take as little a 3 minutes to do.

  14. Wayne Gooden says:

    This is great help for newbies as well as seasoned vets to re-visit. I was reading your help for Michele about not blowing out (over exposing) the windows in the shot. Thanks for spending time helping us all out.

  15. Sharon says:

    The lighting/look in your photos is exactly what i want to acheive…do you do this with speedlights? If so, approx how many in typical shot. And is your post done via batch processing such as photomatix or just some light post in in LR and or PS? Thanks…..

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      Hi Sharon. I generally only ever use one speedlight. Occasionally a second to light a peripheral room which is in the background. All my retouching is done via Lightroom, sometimes Photoshop when I need to replace skies etc.

  16. Hey great article! Thanks for all the help. I love your YouTube video tutorials as well.
    I’m new to the game and am shooting for my brokerage. What type of flash would you recommend for a canon on a fixed budget? Im probably gonna go the off camera rout as I love the way those pics seem to turn out.

    Thank you!

  17. Marlon says:

    Hello. Thank you very much for the information. I’m new to the real estate photography. What would you recommend for a specific camera brand and model to use for someone who is a beginner and with a budget of less than $1,000?

    Thank you,

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      To be honest, the camera brand and model is probably the least important factor in getting good real estate photos. All Canon or Nikon bodies will have the same potential. It’s more about the lens, composition, lighting and retouching.

  18. Ashley says:

    AMAZING article!! I have a Canon T2i, which wide lens would be best for this camera?

  19. Robert says:

    Just purchased an A6000 with 2 kit lenses (E-18-55mm/E55-210mm). I’m a realtor who wants to start shooting my own property photos. What do you think of me returning the A6000 package, and just purchasing an A6000 body with a Rokinon 12mm f/2.0 for RE photography? Thanks in advance!

  20. Leo Alonzo says:

    Hi im a real state photographer is D7000 or D7100 is much better quality that nikon D5300 or in canon 70D. Even my lens is sigma 10-20mm is this gud lens??

  21. Amiko says:

    Hi I recently bought an Olympus EM5 mark ii what setting do I have to use and what flash?? Thanks

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      Hi Amiko, I’m not familiar with compatible flashes for the Olympus range. My advice would be to discuss this with other Olympus users.

  22. Tony Brown says:

    Just brought a Canon EOS Rebel T6i that i will use to take photos of rental properties. It came with two lenses 18-55mm and 55-250mm do I need a wide angle lens to caption an entire room? if so, what do you recommend? if not, which lens should i be using of the two?

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      Hi Tony. You will need a Canon 10-22mm or Sigma 10-20mm wide angle lens for interior shots with your camera. The 18-55 won’t be wide enough but might be useful with external shots.

      • Richard says:

        Which version Sigma for a T6i? I want to do a few interior real estate photos.

        Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM Canon EF
        Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM Canon EF

        • Oliver Pohlmann says:

          Hi Richard. I wouldn’t be able to advise as I only use canon lenses. I’m sure they been compared somewhere on the internet. Looking at the model numbers, however, I’m guessing the f/3.5 is more expensive. Seeing as you’ll never really need an aperture of f/3.5 for interior photography I’d go for the f/4-5.6 if it is indeed cheaper.

  23. Dustin says:

    Hello! I have a Nikon D7000. I’m looking for an affordable prime wide angle for real estate photography. What would you suggest?

  24. taltal says:

    Help! I want to rent an amazing lens and I have read such great things about both of these! I have a D750 full frame body. Which would you pick and why.

    NIKON AF-S DX 10-24MM F3.5-4.5G ED LENS

    NIKON AF-S 16-35MM F4 G ED VR

    NIKON AF-S NIKKOR 14-24MM F2.8G ED(this is a grand more!!!)

    • We Are SO Photo says:

      The 14-24 would be good if you want to use the lens outside of your real estate photography. If it’s just for interior and real estate, then I would choose the cheaper 10-24. Most lenses aren’t particularly sharp at their widest or narrowest zoom, so with most interior shots taken at 15-20mm, the 10-24mm lens should be better. However, I have no experience with either of these lenses so would suggest googling them to find out which is better in real world tests.

  25. Anita Allen says:

    I have a Nikon D7000 and I would like to get a wide angle lens. What do you suggest Oliver?

  26. Andrew Drake says:

    Hi! What a wonderful article! I shoot real estate photography as a part time gig and have shot some homes with with strobes but mostly shoot using natural lighting and single shot HDR using RAW images. I was wondering how you deal with shadow issues that sometimes result from fans or chandeliers when using a strobe? Also I find that large rooms are very hard to light especially when assuming the correct exposure for Windows with a view! What kind of strobe do you recommend? Any kind of feedback would be great! Thanks!

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      Hi Andrew. Shadows from fans or any ceiling lights come from not diffusing the flash properly. Try bouncing it off the wall behind the camera rather than pointing the flash straight up. Also, keep the flash in line with the camera (ie, in line with the lens direction) to ensure that, if a shadow is being cast, it’s hidden behind the fan or ceiling light. Regarding large rooms, I usually use a 3 or 5 photo HDR, which I merge in Lightroom. Large rooms are difficult to light with just one or two flash lights and will require a lot of power, which often results in an unnatural looking interior light.

  27. Shane says:

    Hi, I am looking at getting a kit for Real Estate Photography I am looking at d7200 with a Sigma 10mm Lens. What do you think would you have other recommendations? Should I aim for a full frame camera instead? Thanks

    • We Are SO Photo says:

      The camera is of little importance in terms of full frame vs cropped to be honest. I don’t know much about the Sigma 10mm lens. Is it fixed zoom?

  28. I love your articles and tutorials. They have really helped me achieve the images I want. I still find with using a tripod and remote release I am not getting the crisp/sharp images. I use the Tokina 11-16 lens and shoot on the recommended settings in this article (ISO 100-200, f/8, in manual mode). I do have a question regarding other settings for focus and metering. These are the options my Nikon gives, which would you recommend?

    Focus Mode: auto-servo, single-servo, continuous servo
    AF-area Mode: 1 pt, 9 pt, 21 pt, 39 pt
    Metering: matrix, center-weighted, spot

    I have read articles from different sources but truly love your work and was hoping to get some input on these settings. Thanks!

    • We Are SO Photo says:

      Thanks Monica.

      The lack of sharpness might be due to the lens. Have you tried a more premium Nikkor lens?

      Regarding the Focus mode, servo focusing is only really used for tracking moving objects. You should have an option for single shot auto focus. That’s the focus mode you want. For the AF area mode, I would choose either 21 or 39 point. Or, even better, manually select where in the frame you want to focus by manually selecting the specific focus points.

      Metering is irrelevant when you are shooting in full manual mode and will have no affect on your image. It will, however, affect your exposure meter on the camera display. Metering is only used by the camera to assess the spread of exposure in the frame when you have one of the parameters (ISO, shutter speed or aperture) set to auto. If you are in full control of all the settings, the camera won’t be able to change anything.

  29. Brian says:

    What are your thoughts on the new Canon 11-24 lens, I’ve heard it’s the best lens for Real Estate but it cost $3000.

    • We Are SO Photo says:

      I think it’s unnecessary. Arm yourself with a 17-40 f/4 ($600), or ideally the 16-35 f/2.8 ($1500) and you’ll be more than happy. Plus you don’t want to shoot wider than 15mm due to the distortion it causes so 11mm isn’t needed. But if money is no object, then go for it.

      • Brian says:

        Thanks for your fast response! I’m actually in video production and shoot with an A7s ii so I might just go with the Sony/Zeiss 16-35 they have. Do you host workshops or classes? If so I’d like to attend one sometime.

        • Oliver Pohlmann says:

          I don’t at the moment, but it’s something which is in the pipeline to look at doing later in the year.

  30. Scott Allen says:

    Hi…wonderful article. Thanks for reminding me about f8. I shoot everything in manual mode, but it seems that when I’m using my Canon flash, I’m stuck at a shutter speed of 250. So I end up exposing the shot either moving the aperture, the ISO or the flash power.

    Lately I’ve been taking a natural light photo to properly expose the windows. And then I take a flash shot and use photoshop layers to bring in the properly exposed windows.

    So which method do you use to properly adjust the exposure when using flash?

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      Hi Scott. Thanks for the kind words.

      You can shoot faster than 1/250s if you connect your flash to your DSLR either via the hot-shoe mount or with a sync cable. Then select High Speed Sync on the flash. This gives you sync speeds all the way to 1/800s.

      Your method of layering the photos is fine. Never tried it that way myself though. The only multi-exposing I do is with HDR.

      I usually use Aperture Priority mode set to f/7.1 or f/8. I fix my ISO to 100 or 200. I then adjust my shutter speed by means of adjusting the exposure meter to expose for the windows. If I need more flash power I increase the actual flash power, or widen my aperture to f/6.3 or increase my ISO.

      Shooting in aperture priority mode is useful here because changing your aperture or ISO doesn’t affect the ambient exposure like it would if you were in manual mode. Thus giving you better control.

      If you find your shutter speed hitting over 1/250s and can’t attach your flash to your camera for high speed sync, try decreasing your ISO or closing your aperture to decrease exposure, then slow down your shutter speed to bring the exposure back up.

      Hope that helps,


  31. Thanks so much for this wonderful article! Oliver, for a Mark III, which would be your best choice for a wide angle lens? You gave three options (one lens comes in 2.8 and 4.0), and if price is no option, which would be your choice? I want to do the best job possible.

    • We Are SO Photo says:

      Hi Jacqui. I would choose the Canon 16-35mm f/2.8. You won’t need to shoot at 2.8 with real estate photography, but you will find it much sharper at apertures of f/4 to f/6.3 compared to the f/4 version of the lens. Plus you will find an f/2.8 lens useful outside of real-estate photography.

  32. Oliver Pohlmann says:

    Hi Mitchell. Sometimes is simply isn’t necessary to get a perfect exposure on the windows – particularly if the windows are small, are at the far end of the room, or don’t show anything interesting outside. For example, if you have a top-floor penthouse overlooking Central Park, then yes, a perfect window exposure would be required to showcase the view. However, for a kitchen with small windows overlooking the neighbour’s garden fence, it’s not very important. My rule is, if the view is bad, don’t worry too much. If there is some greenery, then show a reasonable exposure of it, and if the view is important then show it well exposed. As long as your windows aren’t so bright that the exposure spills over the window frame!

    You have to remember that the window exposure is normally 2 to 3 stops higher than the room itself, ie. they’re often 8 times brighter. That means if you’re looking to always get a perfect window exposure, you’re going to have to make your rooms 8 times brighter than they are. That will involve a lot of lighting equipment, or using multiple flashes on very high power. The result is that your room will be dominated by flash power, resulting in a poor shot. Or you can always take a separate photo exposing for the windows, then Photoshop them in afterwards.

    I guess it comes down to efficiency vs final image. If your clients request perfect window exposure in every shot, then you have a lot of work ahead of you with your interior shoots. Otherwise just accept that often it’s ok to have slightly bright windows.

  33. Oliver Pohlmann says:

    A 55mm or 35m lens wouldn’t be a good choice with interior photography. They are simply too zoomed to be able to show a room properly. The Nikon D3300 body is fine, but you need something along the lines of the Nikkor 10-24mm.

  34. Ammar Alani says:

    Thanks alot for the rich detailed info , this article was greatly useful for me as I was wondering if i should use a fish-eye or Wide angle .
    Also I was confused between the chest height position or eye-view height or abdominal height .
    I will prefer this article to any Interior real estate photographer ….
    Greetings …

    • Oliver Pohlmann says:

      Never use a fisheye lens with interior photography. There would be too much distortion. Regarding eye, chest or abdominal height, there is no rule. Use your judgement to decide which height works best for the room you are photographing and the objects/furniture in that room.

  35. Rebecca says:

    What a useful and succinct article!
    We received our estate agent’s photographs for review yesterday and they were appalling – ill lit and poorly composed despite the house being very well staged.
    We were about to abandon the whole thing and pay for an outside professional to do a shoot, but your tips gave us the confidence to do it ourselves for the price of a new 10-22 lens for the Canon, and after a little balancing in Photoshop they look fabulous.
    Thank you so much!

  36. wayne says:

    Would just like to know how you started off in real estate photography , meaning how did you first get the work ? walk in word of mouth ?

    • We Are SO Photo says:

      Hi Wayne, I photographed a couple of friends’ houses, which were fairly high-end, and responded to a request from Airbnb to photograph rental homes in my area. Through Airbnb I got the occasional luxury property come up and used the photos of those types of homes to approach high-end property agents offering my services. You need a good portfolio of photos before you can approach clients offering your services as they will make a decision based on your images.

  37. Evan says:

    This is awesome! Love the pictures! Question, how long do you usually keep your photos after a shoot? And do you keep RAW images or do you just keep the JPEG files?

    • We Are SO Photo says:

      Hi Evan. Many thanks. I tend to keep all RAW files for about a year. Each January I then go through and cull them, keeping about 50-75 of the best RAW files each year. Jpegs I tend to keep for longer and delete fewer.

  38. Brandon FG says:

    Thanks for this…I’ve picked up a few tips over the last couple of years, and like you, now cringe when I see my earlier work. I’ll definitely work on remembering these tips!

  39. Peter says:

    Any tips on white balance? I’ve had the hardest time balancing the natural light from the windows, and the interior lights in the house.

    • We Are SO Photo says:

      Hi Olsen. White balance is tricky with interior photography. Camera-wise I always leave it on Auto WB and adjust/correct when viewing the images in Lightroom – as you can make a more accurate assessment to the overall temperature when viewing on a monitor. Sunlight, flash light and lightbulb light will always be different temperatures. Some photographers suggest changing the bulbs in the room to match the sunlight temperature. I laugh at that suggestion. As long as your flash light (which is naturally quite cool in colour) is gelled to match/compliment the temperature of the paintwork (ie, walls and ceiling) and the overall lighting temperature of the room, I wouldn’t get too caught up in it.

  40. Great tips . Thank you , Oliver …!!
    I read many articles about RE photography last 2 weeks and nowere did not find tips about focusng point. I assume for f8 all the room will be in focus, but it is interesting your recomends ..
    All the best . Vadym.

    • We Are SO Photo says:

      Thanks Vadym. Glad it helped. Yes f/8 will be fine. In fact, an aperture of f/5.6 or f/6.3 will still be fine at short focal lengths and still get everything in focus (in all but the very largest of rooms).

  41. Michele Bedard says:

    Hello. Thank you for this information. Can you please go into more detail on how to shift the dslr’s exposure meter to correctly expose for the windows?

    • We Are SO Photo says:

      Hi Michele,

      If you’re in aperture priority mode and have set your ISO, then adjusting the exposure bar simply changes the shutter speed (as that’s the only parameter left to change). With your DSLR not in live view, you should see your camera settings on the LCD display. Depending on your camera you’ll be able to move through these settings (initiated by by pressing the button marked Q on most Canon DSLRs). Navigate through the settings on the screen and highlight the exposure bar. Press your ‘set’ or ‘ok’ button. Using your jog wheel, move the marker to the left to drop the exposure and press ‘set’ or ‘ok’ to confirm. Take a shot. If the windows are still over exposed, repeat the process.

      The alternative is to simply put your camera in Manual mode, set your aperture and ISO as before, but this time just manually choose a shutter speed which shows the exposure bar as underexposed. Hope that helps. – Oliver

  42. Daniel Waltham says:

    Great tips thanks. Love your tutorials. I would love for you to do a video or article on balancing ambient light with interior flash light. That’s the part I find hardest to master.

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